Milan Fashion Week, with its packed calendar of fashion shows and events, has just ended. Balance? Definitely positive: splendid collections, spectacular shows and wonderful people. But if we can all see the défilé in live-streaming and on the profiles of the various houses, it is more difficult to be able to savor what is happening in the city. Many brands show the new collections to the press through increasingly spectacular presentations and events
However, the unscheduled thing for Milan fashion week is called Coronavirus. In fact, there were at least a thousand absences among Chinese stylists, buyers, journalists and insiders, as well as cancellations of fashion shows and events at the weekend. So bad, but for sure necessary. Health first!!
Let’s start…. Milan Fashion Week opened with the event “China we are with you” organized by Camera della Moda, an initiative to allow the Chinese fashion world, which will not be able to attend Milan Fashion Week, to attend the key moments of the event through technology. We are now in 2020 and technology in this is our friend in these situations.
In the evening, I had the pleasure of going to Pinko’s exclusive Till You Drop party.
A party with a rock sound that was unleashed at the Alcatraz in Milan. Pinko has chosen the hectic days of the fashion week to celebrate the new campaign in the company of many well-known faces and with the contribution of the likes of Skin, Planet Funk, Roschelle and Strixia, enclosed in the claim #TakeLifeByTheHorns, capturing a glamorous, scratchy femininity and never taken for granted.
The Milan fashion week officially started with the beautiful creations of Gilberto Calzolari, an amazing “Made in Italy luxury brand with a green heart”, written in his Instagram account. His show, entirely dedicated “to a system that is going haywire”, was chosen by Camera della Moda with a clear intent: to bring sustainability first of all to the catwalk. What do you think about it? Here below my best nine.
Twirls and lace, straight lines and original prints. The Marco Rambaldi fashion show is dedicated to women who do not accept the impositions of society. Even the young Bolognese designer is also attentive to sustainability because some pieces of the Spring-Summer 2020 are made with recycled material. LOVE, LOVE and LOVE .
For Fall-Winter 2020/21 Rambaldi brings “a sweet love story” to the catwalk. At the center is the woman who “is a generator of dreams and emotions, exposed to the injustices of life but never broken by it, always raised to an icon of coherence and freedom”.
The word Elysian means: beautiful, perfect and peaceful. These are the values that the stylist would like to represent in her women’s clothing brand.
Through her brand, the Hungarian designer would like to highlight femininity, as well as the beauty and finesse of a woman, an intention deriving from her interest in art and towards works that enhance the delicacy of the female body. As can be seen from the images, the collection presented in Milan by Boglárka today conveys a sense of delicacy thanks to its white, rosy and red colors. As for the manufacture of the clothes, the designer chose elegant fabrics and hand-embroidered garments that are well suited to the body of each woman
The warm color palette with burgundy, milk white combined with velvet, the different ton sur ton shades, creates a refined and decisive image. Arbesser’s signature patterns are declined in different scales with micro and macro versions that appear as mohair jacquard sweaters and fluid printed fabrics. The shoulder items quilted in metallic fabrics and sequins brighten the tones, giving ironic and edge. The inspirations of the collection
«It all started with the collaboration with my friend Marco Guazzini who invented a particular material called Marwoolus, made by combining Pietrasanta marble powder and colored wool strands», the original effect given by this process we find it as a photographic print in some garments of the collection, or as an existing material in bijoux, buttons and belt buckles.
Alessandro Michele welcomed its guests through from backstage.
As in a ceremony, in a ritual (which is even defined as religious), in a liturgy that is always the same and yet always different, the magic of fashion is presented before our eyes.
Fashion inspirations: 70s, bright colors, tulle skirts, knee-high socks worn with moccasins, baby sandals with eyelets (also in an unedited version with platform), references to British culture and neo bon ton.
On this stage are shown the clothes intended as artistic-emotional collages where seventeenth-century collars, coats and socks, embroidery on velvets and silk create new things that we have always had.
I am pleased to present you the HARUNOBUMURATA Fall Winter 2020.
It is an exclusively female brand that evokes tranquility and delicacy.
As you can see, the designer indulges himself by engaging many colors, among which the most used seem to be blue, gray, black and white.
As for the fabrics, the Japanese designer prefers elegance and refinement, therefore his clothes are often in cashmere or cotton-mixed satin.
A show of great impact for Moncler Genius which for Milan Fashion Week 2020 has foreseen 12 installations for as many ‘visions’.
Moncler’s execution is conceived in acts, environments, scenes, stories about how such a complex garment (as only a duvet can be), can become the protagonist of many different stories.
Among the eight creative interpreters, Craig Green is the real counterpart. Working only with the nylon rip-stop, a very light but extremely resistant fabric, Green has focused on the concepts of transparency, safety and protection, creating unusual and functional shapes. Experiencing everything firsthand, I have to tell you that it was all amazing….
Cesare Paciotti launched his new line of footwear in the suggestive setting of Palazzo Bovara ( it’s a location to visit absolutely when you are in Milan btw). The fall winter 20/21 amazed me a lot: lines from the nineties revisited in a contemporary key, spool heels with a vaguely retro flavor, ankle boots and boots elegantly soft on the ankle, nice colors. At first sight in love with a turquoise boot. A contrast that works, an idea of style that makes a very fresh novelty appealing.
Then, how beautiful are these ankle boots the brand has gifted me? They are super rock and roll, a perfect match with leather pants!!
Like the paintings with which they are surrounded and the works of art with which they interact, the clothes of the exhibition “Memos – About fashion in this millennium” are scattered among the rooms of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum to tell us a story.
The exhibition aims to construct a “discourse on the method”, or rather a reflection on fashion curation and its ability to manage the various products of fashion itself: not only objects, but also images and words. “Memos is like an inventory of forgetfulness. A work in progress. A notebook of notes that takes the form of an exhibition, together with a book that proposes itself as a summary of attitudes and methods, of conversations, of memories, of research that are still building site open “, writes the curator Maria Luisa Frisa in a note to the press.
Memos does not want to give answers but to ask questions about changing the paradigms of fashion. Objects are bearers of a value and meaning which continue to influence the present.
During the forth day of this FW I was invited to “FAD TALENTS”, a presentation of 3 new designers, supported by CNMI.
- Myūzu – Myūzu is a fashion label founded by FAD Academy student, Shagun Chauhan. Chauhan’s designs strive on emphasizing and celebrating. Indian craftsmanship, rich hand embroidery and bold colours. It is Chauhan’s evocative and intrepid graphics, as well as their asymmetric imbalances that presents Myūzu as an up-and-coming designer.
- House of DK – House of DK designer, Devesh Kothari, focuses on fresh and exciting textiles and fashion techniques to create interesting designs. Kothari has worked on creating his own innovative concepts to up-cycle pre-worn denim to create an alternative to traditional fur; as well as the inspired use of upcycled champagne and wine bottle corks. House of DK encompasses the art of storytelling to draw a focus onto the sustainability of fashion, by disrupting traditional textile methods. Kothari’s disruptive streetwear offers a poignant contribution about waste in the fashion industry.
- Warp by Kuship Parmar – Warp by Kuship Parmar is an athleisure label that focuses on and bright colours with geometric detailing and interesting shapes. The Label has been featured across titles such as Hunger Magazine and Vogue India.
Etro chose the courtyard of the Giuseppe Verdi Conservatory for his show. A “folk-bourgeois” wardrobe: it is the one proposed by the brand for the next season. Designed for women with a nomadic spirit, fascinated by distant cultures. From sarong-style trousers to Argentine-inspired embroidered vests, from jacquard cardigans worn as micro-dresses to English-style suits with silk shirt and knot around the neck, every look is a journey. The finish is glossy: the models all carry the same trench coat, in coated canvas with paisley motif edging in different colors.
In this Iceberg Autumn Winter 2020 collection we can see how knitwear re-enters with a technical and three-dimensional effect of macramé angora and mohair treated with tufts and enriched with sequin applications. Everything is done on geometric patterns that play on the obliquity of the lines. The soul of the luxury sporty brand is not forgotten: padded nylon down jackets, cocoon bomber jackets with lozenge inserts and elements that belong to the casual wardrobe. Space-age elements in silver and pearl white are inserted in contrast to black and gold, clear references to the brand’s clubwear style. There is no lack of homage to the cartoon world. It’s not really my style of wearing, but it’s always a nice sight!
As the last appointment of the day, I found myself inside the Hotel VIU Milan, at the Re-Generation party organized by the German fashion brand BOSS, in collaboration with Vogue Italia.
This event celebrated BOSS, which for decades has influenced the style passing through the different generations, also with the launch of the Autumn Winter Generation collection, which BOSS then presented on Sunday 23 February (anyway I think it was the most AMAZING show I saw during all this fashion week)
At the beginning of the second-last day of this fashion week, I had the pleasure of posing as a model for the Russian brand Anna Ivanova. Predominant colors of the collection? Yellow and blue. Here are some favorite shots of that morning.
The fall / winter 2021 collection of Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini is one of the most imaginative, colorful, varied and perhaps bon ton seen this year. Soft, shiny and reflective fabrics, pastel colors such as peach pink, aqua green, lilac, ivory, bows, laced collars, ruffles and decorative Swarovski crystals are the focal points of the clothes made by Serafini. In contrast to the lightness of silk and chiffon there are oversized outerwear scattered almost everywhere. Here BELOW the fashion show video 🙂
And once again I had the pleasure of participating in the new event organized by Roberto Cavalli.
The presentation was wow, the predominant looks had a very animal style, intended especially for evening outings and to make the woman provocative and seductive.
Alongside the typical leopard style, which represents Cavalli indeed, with the new collection, zebra stripes, gray python and many garments adorned with feathers emerge, with shades ranging from red / pink to emerald green. What to say as my personal opinion? Not really my style, but with the boots with a square toe was love at the first sight!!!
As already mentioned in some lines above, with the Boss fashion show I ended this FW with a blast (yes because with the arrival of Covid-19 all the others were made behind closed doors or even canceled 🙁 )
What to write as suggestions? If you have a blazer from your husband / boyfriend, the time has come to “borrow it”.
A masculine style is presented tout court, in which men’s basics are pivotal points to play in the women’s wardrobe, with oversized outerwear and soft jersey garments, jacket and trousers suits slide over the skin like a glove. Subsequently, everything starts from the color for the collection. In particular in monochromatic total looks in the variants of lilac (true protagonist that opens and closes the show) of rust, of coal gray, black and blue that blend, ivory, camel and white.
The plus? The oval walkway surrounding an orchestra playing “Down to Earth”, composed by Henry Scars Struck.
There is no doubt, with the covid 19 arrived in Italy it will surely be the beginning of a new era of fashion. A small general rehearsal had already taken place, with the “China, we are with you” event: an online event / platform to allow Chinese buyers and professionals, blocked in Asia due to the coronavirus, to assist from remote to all the activities (I have experienced as well). In fact, this fashion week can be considered the first digital version.
And for the next one we will have to do it necessarily in a different way. How? We’ll see….